Foolish pride and a tale of two wine bars

Dreamtime - A review of Daryl Hall's '3 Hearts in the Happy Ending Machine' (1986)

Fresh from a string of highly successful albums and tours with his musical partner John Oates, Daryl Hall decided to record his second solo album nine years after his debut. Burnt by the mismanagement of the excellent Sacred Songs (1977 (1980)) which he had recorded with Robert Fripp, 3 Hearts in the Happy Ending Machine is something of an introspective effort, in marked contrast to the pomp and bombast of the previous Hall & Oates album Big Bam Boom (1984). With David Stewart (of The Eurhythmics) at the production desk, this album uses every production technique in the book, which might not be to everyone's taste, to augment Hall's incredible vocals. 

There are a number of strong tracks on the album but for me the one that really stands out is the sublime 'Foolish Pride' which really should have made more of a dent on the charts than it did back in the mid-1980s, this classic ballad with a strong and catchy chorus is a real treat and a must for any fans of 1980s pop. Other tracks such as 'Dreamtime' and the quirky 'For You' show Hall pushing beyond the boundaries of his Hall & Oates material and exploring such diverse formats as psychedelia and dance music rather than the Rock 'n Soul that his previous works had been identified with. 

The result is a rather bizarre, synthesiser/drum machine drenched effort but an enjoyable one at that. For many there will be a bit too much going on, it is a heavily layered album but Hall's voice is on top form and the production (like most of Dave Stewarts efforts in this area) is first rate. I would personally give this album which to mind is the unsung hero of music in 1986 a whopping 9/10, whilst it is not Sacred Songs (which gets a rare 10/10) it is a storming effort from one of the most consummate and talented artists over the last 50 years. 

You can purchase on Amazon for only £7.49 and discover the magic of the music of Daryl Hall: 

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004G9TZTS/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=103612307&pf_rd_s=lpo-topstripe&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000RT3R0E&pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_r=1TQ8TRMQ8E4VT0PKZCJH 

A Tale of Two Wine bars

Villiers Street, which stretches from Embankment tube station all the way up to Charing Cross is a hotbed of mediocre eateries, the Mecca for any uninspired and hungry office worker in the immediate neighbourhood. There is also a smattering of bars and pubs which seem to attract a mixture of besuited business men and some rather seedy types. Then there is Gordon's Wine Bar, to my mind the most overrated, overpriced and overcrowded establishment in the capital. Proudly boasting some nonsensensical heritage as the oldest wine bar in London it is the haven of a number of self-involved students from the nearby Kings College and noisy tourists - and this is just outside. Inside is even worse, with people jostling for space at an overcrowded wine bar where you can enjoy glasses of cheap, battery acid like wine for premium prices or tumblers of dark sherry which have been sitting in the bottle for far too long. Then there is the food, which sits all day under a heat lamp sweating grease before it is lapped up by someone desperate to drown out the taste of the filthy wine. An acquaintance once told me that the place had a charm which made up for the poor quality of everything else…I politely disagreed. 

On the other side of the road, just down a brick tunnel know as Craven Passage sits an establishment with an altogether different story. Whilst lacking the heritage of its counterpart (It is part of the Davy's group) Champagne Charlie's makes up for with a strong and well priced selection of wines and reliable food which doesn't try to be anything more that it is. Unlike Gordon's if you want a beer you can have it and even a G&T should you so fancy. If you thought that wasn't enough you can even buy a cigar from a selection of Habanas at the bar or a pack or Marlborough lights from behind the bar (sadly non of which you can smoke in this underground bar where they much should be!). The Atmosphere is convivial and it never gets overcrowded - there is always space to place your drink be it at a table or a stretch of bar. My one criticism is that in a recent change to their menu, they decided to scrap the very popular plate of cocktail sausages they used to serve with mustard mayonnaise of which many plates could be devoured at pre-supper drinks! In short it is an unpretentious and convivial place which I have had the great pleasure to introduce many friends to. The jug of their own port is something great to share with your port swilling friends and is a nice inoffensive drop to quaff after a busy day in the Westminster bubble or the hustle and bustle of the financial markets. 

So if you do find yourself in the Embankment area and at a loose end or stuck for where to meet friends, then I urge you to look beyond the tired gimmicks of Gordon's and take a chance on Champagne Charlies. More details of which can be found on the following web address: 

http://www.davy.co.uk/champagnecharlies 

Honestly, No Jacket Required...Bloody Good Chap is Back!

I'm back and I'm better than ever, after an inexcusably long hiatus, BloodyGoodChap is back to give you regular fixes of eccentric lifestyle and leisure! What can I say but that I've been lazy and unmotivated, but with a new year comes the opportunity to turn a new leaf and what better than to start now. 

As an introductory post this one is a little longer but I will now be posting more regularly but in shorter, more manageable bursts offering my usual range of cookery, drinking, smoking, travel, reviews and general musings. I do hope you enjoy my first outing of, I hope, many in 2012…

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Worth it's salt - My review of Cured by Lindy Wildsmith

Lindy Wildsmith has written a fantastic book that makes the art of curing, smoking and general preserving incredibly accessible to a layman like myself. I am the proud owner of a number of books on this subject and some of them are so complex or fiddly that, whilst i am entranced by the recipe, I am immediately turned away from making it in the confines of a home kitchen without the heavy duty gadgetry and access to specialist ingredients that some of these cookery writers have! 

I have tried a couple of recipes already from this accessible book full of sumptuous photography and interesting asides. The  pork belly worked wonders in a stripped down cassoulet that I made with plumptious Toulouse sausages and velvety haricot beans. I also tried her reproduction of the famous Franco Taruschio salt beef with fantastic results, it was especially delicious on a freshly baked soft white roll covered with slices of gherkins, mild sauerkraut, French's American mustard (a delicious but hideously ersatz condiment!). This book passed my golden rule of cookery books, do the recipes work and are the quantities stated correct. Plenty of cookery books (and I mention no names) have very exact and frankly bizarre levels of certain flavourings which can kill the recipe if followed! In particular this bizarre fascination of covering everything with lemon juice. Anyway, I am pleased to say that Wildsmith's recipes - at least the ones that I've tried - have passed and have spurred me on to try some more, I will keep you posted.

Lastly, Where this book builds on pioneering charcuterie and delicatessen writers such as Jane Grigson through innovation. There are a number of recipes in this book which I would never have conceived, nor would I have found in any other book. This of course is juxtaposed by her fantastic homages to classic recipes such as Taruschio's salt beef as mentioned above and also Lady Llanover's famous recipe for the Hermit's salted duck.

This book is a must buy and the perfect starting point for anyone embarking upon the delicious and mysterious art of smoking, curing and pickling. You can purchase it at any good book shop or on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Cured-Slow-Techniques-Flavouring-Vegetables/dp/1906417415/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1327768139&sr=8-1 

For want of a nail

On the whole I do not rate 1989 as a year of fantastic music. There were certainly some fantastic albums such as the Stone Rose's eponymous debut album, Chris Rea's Road to Hell, Bob Mould's (of Husker Du) Workbook and Todd Rungren's entrancing Nearly Human. 

'Who's Todd Rundgren?' many will cry as they are reading this. Mainly acknowledged as a fine producer with credits such as Meat Loaf's Bat out of Hell, XTC's Skylarking and the Tubes' Remote Control, Rundgren was also a brilliant musician in his own right releasing a large range of eccentric and occasionally impenetrable albums. However there were occasions when he hit the pop-rock nail on the head and for me it is on Nearly Human that it is most realised. 

If you can look past the sometimes overbearing arrangements and production you find vulnerable lyrics, strong vocals and brilliant playing consolidated in some great pop tunes; one track, 'The Waiting Game' is a good example. However the power of this set comes from the fact that Rundgren recorded the album with a live band, according to AllMusic guide this was something of a gimmick; but then again wasn't that merely the by-product of the excessive 1980's and also of a musician who revelled in pomp and differing studio techniques to achieve his artistic goals. There are a few dark moments on the album and the very raw 'Parallel Lines' is one good example focusing on lost love and the point of no return. This album finds Rundgren is digging deep into his emotions and the results are pleasing. 

A word of warning is that this album is not for everyone and some might find it too clean cut and a little plodding. True there are weak moments, I do not deny this but on the whole the strengths out-weigh them. Personally, I would give this album a solid 8/10 but then again I'm a generous marker and, with this in mind, I would love to know your thoughts on the album, Nearly Human by Todd Rundgren

Winter Warmer from Down Under

When looking for something to warm the cockles of your heart on a cold January weekend Australia seems the last place one would look to find a brilliantly warming liquor that penetrate the bones and reinvigorate the senses. I would say that you should wipe away those illusions that Australia is all new world reds, oak-laden whites and clean Rieslings for they make fantastic liqueurs as well, in particular the fantastic Muscat that comes from Morris of Rutherglen. 

Chilled it makes a fantastic end to a dinner working wonderfully with cheese in place of port and to my mind is even better when poured over a scoop of well made vanilla ice cream - of course these are the two cliche combinations for Muscat but I entirely agree that they are the best pairings. 

Don't get me wrong, I love my port but sometimes one needs a bit of a change and muscat offers a welcome alternative. It has the weight of a tawny port but with a refreshing tang that you do not get from its Mediterranean cousin, and as such is well worth a try. It can be purchased direct from Morris of Rutherglen but that would require rather a long wait in order to receive it. However, I am sure that you can pick it up in the UK and if you do see a bottle in the wine shop or the supermarket I would highly recommend buying a couple for you wine rack/cellar. 

Laid back & leisurely 

'Beautiful' I proclaimed the other night as a smooth stream of smoke cascaded from my mouth and diffused into the air. I was sitting at home on one of those rare evenings where I had managed to escape the office without committing myself to any social engagements. I had the whole evening to myself and so I had decided to sit down with a serious cigar, a few gin & tonics and a couple of films and let the tides of extreme relaxation wash over me, forgetting all the cares of the office and of feeling anti-social. this was 'me' - a rare thing in society these days - and I was set on enjoying myself. 

I had been given a box of the finest Montecristo No.2s by my father for my Birthday a few months ago, and they had been sitting majestically in my humidor, waiting for precisely a moment like this to savour  - to be fair I had sampled a couple over a very boost Christmas but who's counting! 

A well kept Cuban cigar is one of the finest treats in the world and I can see why they are a desert island choice of so many people, I was disappointed that the Deputy PM, Nick Clegg, chose a supply of cigarettes on his appearance over a well kept stash of these beauties! But I suppose all of use make errors sometimes. 

It is hard to describe how they smoke as I profess that I am no expert on the subject, I just like what I like. They have a lighter feel than other Cuban cigars like the incredible rich Cohiba and the incredibly dense Bolivar (a personal favourite) and make for the perfect cigar to have without committing too much effort and too many hours to. 

Again, as with my album review I would love to here your comments on this cigar if you have smoked it yourself, perhaps you have something you want to recommend to me on the back of this? just let me know and I will be sure to give it a go and post about it afterwards, with the relevant acknowledgements of course. 

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That's all for now but it's great to back and I hope I can keep you entertained with more food, philosophy and general noodlings from the mind of the Bloody Good Chap. 

I broke my leg: The Confessor - Joe Walsh (1985)

I think that AllMusic can sometimes be accused of being quite uncharitable, in fact, snobbish on some occasions. This is especially true when it comes to the music of Joe Walsh, the brilliant axe-man who penned such hits as 'Rocky Mountain Way', 'Life's been Good' and wrote the grinding riff to The Eagle's 'Life in the Fastlane' (which he also played). Whilst the Confessor is by no means Walsh's finer efforts it is not as bad as the critics would have you believe.

The cover (a pastiche on Caspar David Friedrich's 'Two men contemplating the moon') is laughably outdated and not a good reflection  of Walsh's idiosyncratic, driving rock tracks looking more like a sleeve from a Caravan album. Whilst admittedly it is patchy and there are a few tunes that I am not mad keen on 'Problems' or '15 Years' which are quite rightly regarded as dross, I really like oft panned tunes like 'Broke my leg' (submerged in layers of Walsh's trademark ARP synthesiser and vocoder)  and the quirky lilt of 'Bubbles' (which could have been lifted from the Dave Lee Roth EP Crazy from the Heat). The lyrics are really not up to much but then again I have always listened to this artist for his music rather than his word-smithery. The stand out cut is the title track, a true power ballad straight from the golden age of the genre with building synthesisers, great guitar licks and wistful vocals.

Whilst the Confessor is no way near the heights of So What? and the sublime But Seriously…Folks?  it is not a bad cut and as such should be given the benefit of a good listen. I will award this one a 6/10, not quite good enough for the premier league but a pleasant enough album in any case.

Diamonds on the soles of her shoes: Graceland - Paul Simon (1986)

Every now and then you get a concept album on which everything pulls together and creates a magical musical experience. I was a bit reluctant to cover what many regard to be Paul Simon's opus but I was cajoled into giving it an in depth listen by one of my friends. From the accordion which opens the album, the tribal drums, chanting backing vocals and fretless bass, this album is steeped in traditional African music fused together with Simon's insistent voice and folk sensibilities. Expansive would be a good word for describing this album as each track seems to be built on a far grander and wide scale than a large number of more introspective albums from the singer/songwriter genre. It has something reminiscent of Pat Metheny's music (especially 'New Chataqua' and 'American Garage').

Quite rightly, it is consistently touted as one of the greatest albums of the 1980s and with very good reason. The marriage of different musical genres id one made in heaven, with stand out tracks like the mega-hit 'Call me Al', the catchy 'Diamonds on the Soles of her Shoes' and the mystical 'Graceland', this is an indispensable album for the collection. Like most of Simon's records there are whole host of accomplished and outstanding session musicians including the prolific Brecker Brothers, Adrian Belew, Steve Gadd, The Everly Brothers and even a guest vocal from Linda Ronstadt. The famed writing talents of Paul Simon and crispness of the production on this album on adds to the other fantastic parts on this album. This album must have been a huge gamble for Paul Simon despite the growing interest in traditional African and Creole music (The Zydeco, whilst an interesting instrument was not something often heard on pop records) and on this occasion its paid of for the artist.

I don't really like giving a perfect ten score, and for the reason that it is not one of my top ten albums I cannot score it that! However it is an amazing record and I would urge you to get off your arse and either download or buy a copy! it is definitely a high 9/10 but for personal taste I cannot give it a 10!

Ride like the wind: Christopher Cross - Christopher Cross (1979)

If there was any album that defined a genre then it was Christopher Cross's chart topping, quintuple platinum debut album. Rarely has a soft rock album sounded so good as it does here… what can I say, I am biased because to me it really is one of the best made and most entertaining albums of its kind. Move over Fleetwood Mac, stand aside Kenny Loggins and 'hit the road' Doobie Brothers, this album is the culmination of many sleepless nights spent at the production desk in the recording studio. If Steely Dan had set the rules for the soft rock genre during the mid 70s then Cross (and a powerhouse team of session musicians) had refined and improved them creating the peak of the genre.

The Album cover does not set the album to a promising start. With what must be one of the worst, yet sterotypical album covers of the late 1970s and early 1980s, Cross (like Toto) had sought to create a symbol for his act by which he could be easily identified in the future. The flamingo (why?) would be used subsequently on his sadly mediocre follow up Another Page (1983) but here it seems fitting - I don't know why. However the naff design is secondary to the fantastic music that this album possesses.

Many critics looking back like to be sniffy about music from the soft rock/AOR genres which I think is remarkably unfair, for this work definitely deserves a place amongst the other fantastic albums that came out in 1979 (A very good year for pop and rock music). The fact is that it didn't sell millions of copies or win the Grammy for record of the year (1980) for no reason, but I guess it was this commercial 'FM' quality coupled with the clean, flawless production from Michael Omartian that made many critics dislike it all the more (similar to the reception that Toto's IV  or Phil Collin's No Jacket Required would also receive in comparison to their success).

Looking at the tracks there are plenty of fantastic pop numbers and plenty of fodder for the charts. The first tune that really stands out is the bass driven 'I really don't know any more' with backing-vocals from the king of AOR Michael McDonald (of the Doobie Bros.). This is followed by the subdued 'Spinning', a soft duet with Valerie Carter (Who she?), yes it's a little saccharine but it is saved by fantastic vocal performances from the lead singers and a well placed trumpet solo. The two big hits on the album are the real highlights, 'Ride LIke the Wind' is a rollocking and catchy anthem with a killer guitar solo which you can just imagine listening to whilst speeding to the border of Mexico (a ref to the song for any of those not familiar with this cut). The other is the anthemic 'Sailing' a wistful ballad which just begs to be listened to outdoor whilst waving a lighter above your head.

I know I must sound incredibly gushing about this album but it really is one that, for me at least, has not one dud cut on it - very rare for a soft rock album. It also has one of the most impressive groups of musicians who Cross called upon to help create it: Don Henley, Jay Graydon, J D Souther, Larry Carlton, Victor Feldman, Nicolette Larson and the aforementioned Michael McDonald. But let us not forget Cross, who has a unique and very engaging vocal talent as well and an incredibly good hand when it came to writing pop music and gauging the popular mood at the turn of the 1970s. If I am right this was one of the last albums to be released in 1979 and serves as an exceptional and truly awesome end to the decade.

Therefore, I sincerely urge you to add this album to your purchase list. It is definitely in my top 10 records of all time and as such gets a solid full marks from me (10/10). It is such a shame that Christopher Cross never reached the artistic heights of this album again, but like most of the best albums, they stand solo as an island of brilliance in a sea of mediocrity.

Coming down from love: Cat in the Hat - Bobby Caldwell (1980)

I wish I could persuade others to like Cat in the Hat and stop them guffawing with incredulity when they find out it is my favourite album, this sadly is very much an album I fear that I am going to be consigned to placing on a pedestal whilst others place it in the charity shop bargain bin. I truly don't know anyone of my peers and contemporaries who own this album, but then again, I guess they are missing out and I will be left to enjoy this pleasure, much like my homemade orange brandy - which I still maintain tastes like Cointreau - on my own!

Cat in the Hat is the sophomore album from the smooth jazz/blue eyed soul songster Bobby Caldwell. To read the glittering if short review on All Music one would be surprised that this album hasn't been snaffled up by more people and to my mind one phrase stands out 'not one duff track on the album'…how true!

A bit like Christopher Cross's debut album that I reviewed a few weeks ago, Cat in the Hat is definitely stuck in the soft rock genre and has probably suffered at the hands of the critics and changing times as a result. But I cannot resist it and if I was to say that there was one album I come back to more than any other then it would be this one.

Each track is a meticulously played, meticulously produced and has real passion. Funky and soulful, Caldwell had already dazzled with his debut album and the smash (and oft sampled) 'What you won't do for love'. This album was different, very slick and soulful lacking the harder edge and resonating chords of Cat in the Hat. Nowhere on the record is this more apparent than on the most famous and sampled track 'Open your Eyes' an oft overlooked 80s pop classic with echoed vocals and rollocking piano chords descending into a dirty guitar riff which will imprint itself on your mind for hours after listening to it.

But the other tracks are great too. The amount of air guitar time I devoted to the rip-roaring solo from 'Coming Down from love' and in time clapping to the infectiously funky 'Mother of Creation' does not bear thinking about. The slower more romantic numbers are also thoroughly please, Caldwell pulls out all stops on tracks like 'To know what I've got' and the disco rhythmed 'Wrong or Right?' giving a truly powerhouse performance… although many of my mates still remain unconvinced, the philistines! 

Like Christopher Cross, I maintain the view that some artists make consistently good albums and others have a flash of greatness that seems to reach the stratosphere only to plummet back to earth by the next album. This is the case with Cat in the Hat, a wonderful album that I will unsuccessfully defend for many years to come for it affords me such great aural pleasure on every listen.

Perhaps I have poor taste in music, then so be it, I won't stop enjoying this album all the more on each play through. And Since this is a day for breaking with precedent (See my review of Al Moro on the main page) I am awarding this 11/10, and put it in a class of its own - if you can find me a better album, I'd like to know!

Sketches from a cigar smoker’s album: The Villiger Appendix

Whilst listening to Joe Walsh's fantastic album 'life's been good' I was struck by how rare such a glorious day is in England and how spoilt we have been over the last week by the fantastic weather. True I have spent the majority of it stuck behind a desk in the office, but that makes these moments, out in the sun with a pint and a villiger maduro all the more special. 

As such, let me turn to the cigar, a lesser known format of the ever reliable Villiger stable, the maduro. To be honest there is little difference between this and the grosseformat pressed variety (readily available from any good newsagent or supermarket) but the maduro is satisfyingly heavier and can certainly match richer drinks for a great, short, affordable smoke. 

It has a slighty bitter aftertaste which betrays they lesser quality tobacco that has been used in the blend compared to a fine cuban or high end cigar from another producing nationn but for the price it is hard to complain. 

Their longevity is also a prime reason for choosing these, unlike their cheaper behind the counter comparisons. Rather than burning up in a matter of minutes they maintain a steady ember and if you don't drag it down like the marlboro man after a smokeless month in the desert you can spin one out to 20 minutes. This is far more agreeable at social gatherings than puffing away on a corona in the garden for up to and hour if not more.

The price ranges comfortably between the £8.00-£10.00 mark depending on where you shop. I will say that these cigars give you real bang for your buck and are worth checking our if you want to have a noncommittal smoke but don't want to settle for the cheap and shorter lived alternatives.

Cordon du Chap: Sapori Cafe

Sapori Cafe

60 Horseferry Road

London SW1P 2AF

Cordon du Chap (out of a possible five): ❁❁❁❁❁

I would describe the Horseferry Road  and the area that surrounds it as a bit of a no man's land. Sandwiched between Westminster, Victoria and Pimlico it acts as meeting point where awkwardly placed political workers look for something to satisfy their appetites at lunchtime. 

Working but a stones throw away on Albert Embankment I often find myself on this stretch of concrete and tarmac pondering that daily conundrum of what to satiate my appetite with. Truth be told, having worked in this area for the last three years for different organisations I know the road and the surrounding area like the back of my hand, and I often curse the fact that I have sampled everything that this thoroughfare has to offer from the greasy spoon served at the iconic Regency Cafe, The Har Gau dumplings at firecracker chinese and the steak and kidney pie at the Tory Party favourite Shepherd's. You name it, I have been there!

However there is one establishment that I feel deserves a special mention as it is somewhere that I consistently return to. Sapori looks like another Italian cafe, of which there are a number in this part of town and judging by the first counter you would be right. Insalata Tricolore and salami sandwiched between Ciabatta is what would greet the untrained eye. However, beyond this sits a majestic array of hot roasted meats, potatoes and vegetables all looking moist and succulent as they entice the potential customer. Whilst the pork is always good, the beef rare and the turkey well….turkey, the best thing you can get  - and they have it seldom - is the roasted lamb. Sandwiched between a soft bap with salad, mayo and mustard it is one of those sandwiches I would walk a mile for. The juices of the hot lamb ooze into the bread making the most delicious savoury blend of meat juices, mayonnaise and butter!

But this is not all, if you like you can have the meat with a side of potatoes and vegetables and even sit down to eat in the cafe which thankfully is also fully licensed. As such it is a great place to meat with friends, former work colleagues and business acquaintances for lunch. In addition to the fine roasted meats there are two different pasta dishes (with an emphasis on orecchiette  and trofie) always on show, lasagne and something else (which can range from an adequate paella to the most delicious meatballs and rice I have ever had). 

I often go their for a takeaway lunch, sometimes to sit down (if you go for the latter they do a number of made to order pasta dishes) and every time there is something new to try. The portions are substantial and what makes it even better they throw in an extra piece of fruit to sweeten the deal! 

I don't know how many of my readers work in the Horseferry Road vicinity but I would thoroughly recommend Sapori to anyone who wants something wholesome and hearty to line their stomach before the rigours of the afternoon's work. 

On a Wing and a Prayer...

It’s been a while my faithful followers, and as such you are within your perfect right to be irritated with yours truly for his lacklustre efforts on the posting front. The only, if poor excuse that I have been ale to give so many disgruntled readers that have approached, called or emailed me is that I have recently started a new job and the desire to do my best there has eclipsed the more leisurely pursuits of writing about what I get up to in my spare time. But rest assured I am back and better than ever. ‘One might call this How to be a Bloody Good Chap: Mark II’ should they be so inclined! Realising that I have a lot of missed time to make up for I will first of all pacify all those impatient food lovers who might have felt that many of my more recent posts had left the culinary arts to one side! So, for your viewing pleasure here is the return of the Bloody Good Chap!!!!

How those words call to mind john wayne's curmudgeonly, ill tempered pilot who saves a plane load of people about to crash land in Hawaii...at least, that's how I thought the film went (do correct me if I am wrong!) But to the delight of my more gastronomically inclined readers, this is not a post about another great mid-western actor. Indeed I am going to talk about a mighty wing indeed (Cheap Trick pun for any Top Gun fan) and simultaneously a humble one. A much neglected ingredient yet such a useful one both for the gourmet and the hard up student alike.



With rich, soft flesh and either crisp or gelatinous skin I could only be talking about the chicken wing. Seen ignobly covered in the colonel's finest coating or smothered with bbq sauce, I feel that this wonderful cut has been so often thought of as poor relation to the meatier leg. Perhaps this explains the lack of adventurous cookery that it comes into contact with. Apart from the roux brother's wing and mussel pie (not a firm favourite) and my regular chinese's sichuan chilli hotpot (intense but addictive) I cannot think and other recipes in my collection of books which make good use of the wings on their own.  I must thoroughly disagree with anyone who poo- poos it, the wing done well trumps a leg every time. No barbecue of mine is complete without then.


A wing of quality should have a good proportion of meat and a nice bit of skin. The flesh is on the bone and so suited to slow cooking or roasting and makes a welcome cheap eat in a time when food costs are rising. I purchased 12 from my butcher the other day for a mere 3.00 and was able to make a couple of delicious meals from them for a fraction of the price it would have cost me to use breasts. Going to the supermarket and seeing a large box of the birds' flapper on sale at under £2.00 suggests how undesirable so many find them and how many must go to waste in the production of perfect breasts, thighs and legs. For me the essential mark of a good chicken is the wing, it should be meaty but not flabby and the skin shouldn't be (like January in Chaucer's 'a Merchant's Tale') 'slacke of skine'. 


Like Indiana Jones in 'The Last Crusade' make sure you choose your specimens 'wisely'.  I will not lecture you like Hugh but at the end of the day we all know good from bad and if needs must needs must, after all we do have an economy (and our own tattered finances) to rebuild! Turning rapidly away from any more food-politico incendiary remarks, let us look at some of the wonderful things that can be achieved with a wing.  


Returning to an old post of mine 'Stock dear boy/girl (the latter rarerly used as it sound a bit sinister - something that James Robertson Justice might say!), Stock!', I must briefly say that chick wings, simply roasted with a bit of salt and cracked black pepper make a fine basis for any fonde and are a lot cheaper to boot! I often use them to make a mid-week batch when funds for a really good hen need to be saved for Sunday lunch! Of course, if you cannot wait for the stock then you are more than welcome tuck into the crisp skinned morsels that the roasting produces, decadently dipped into a bowl of leftover gravy!

Another killer use for any wing fan is to use the cut as a substitute in recipes which require more expensive cuts. One of my favourite dishes to knock up is chicken breasts (skin on) roasted with butter, herbs and white wine accompanied with a spaghettini with roasted tomatoes, basil and parmesan. Of course I use the butcher’s best breasts and baby plum tomatoes when I usually make it. However, for those who are feeling the cold pinch of recession might feel that the use of these ingredients is a little extravagant. That is why I devised a cheap and cheerful version which could either be a hearty meal for one or a light lunch for two. I think it also is one of the best ways to cook this cut whilst also flexing your culinary muscles.

Nb. I must stress the importance of using Di Cecco’s Fedelini as your pasta for this recipe as it is just the right thickness for the dish. If you have one extravagance in this dish then it should be this. Also Freshly grated parmesan and not that powdered smegma that you get in plastic shakers!

Ingredients  (for 2)

For Wings: 

glug of groundnut oil

6 good sized and plumptious Chicken Wings

Handful of fresh mixed herbs from garden/window box (tarragon, rosemary, thyme, parsley)

generous knob butter

Half glass of dry white wine

Maldon Salt and Cracked black pepper

For Spaghetti: 

3 good sized tomatoes cut into 1/8ths 

glug of olive oil

2 bay leaves

3 whole cloves garlic

Maldon salt and cracked black pepper

Large handful of  freshly grated parmesan

good handful of Fedelini (enough for 2)

Garnish

Freshly ripped basil

Extra parmesan

Method

1.    preheat oven to 230 Degrees Celsius, chop herbs and lay chicken wings on an oiled roasting tin with plenty of salt and pepper.

2.    when oven is at optimum temperature, sprinkle over the herbs and set in the oven.

3. Turn down to 190 degrees after 10 minutes and leave for a further 20.

4. Chop tomatoes, smash garlic, rip bay sprinkle salt and pepper and give a good glug of oil into a small baking tin and set to one side.

5. Set a large pan of salted water on the hob and bring to the boil.

6. When wings are crisp and succulent, remove from oven to rest, turn up heat to 230 degrees Celsius and place the tray with the tomatoes in the oven.

7. When the water is at a boil, remove the wings from the roasting tin to a warm plate, put it on the smallest ring on a high heat and add the butter and wine, cooking until the alcohol has boiled off.

8. Place the fedelini in the pan and cook for aroungd 4-5 minutes until al dente, draining off and transferring to the tin of deglazed juices.

9. Stir around and then, removing the sizzling tomatoes from the oven, combine with the pasta in the pan, constantly stirring and add the gated parmesan gradually.

10. Plate up and serve with plenty of ripped fresh basil and a green salad with a punchy dressing and of course, some extra parmesan and a large glass of good red wine. 

Cordon Du Chap: Wright Brothers Oyster and Porter House

Wright Brothers Oyster and Porter House

11Stoney Street

Borough Market

London SE1 9AD

Cordon Du Chap (out of a possible five) : ❁❁❁❁

Kicking off the award we have the first of  (I hope) many good reviews. Wright Brothers Oyster and Porter House in Borough Market is a fantastic mainstay off one of the liveliest slices of the capital’s food scene. Nestled alongside Monmouth Coffee House and perched opposite the smoky, chorizo selling barbecue of Brindisia  this purveyor of fine molluscs is a welcome sight to a weary shopper who has seen just about enough boudins, cured meat, cheese and roti de veau to last a lifetime!

As you can imagine I had a productive morning at the market, I had a list of things to buy but as is so often the case, I ended up straying away from it. I had been in the market, trying samples of fresh local produce and testing fruit and veg for firmness when I felt my stomach let out a faint moan. Smells of frying bacon mingled with mulled wine started to make my mouth water and I realised that it was time for lunch!

I would like to say that I stumbled onto Wright Brothers but unfortunately I am a creature of habit and truth be told I had been there a couple of times before. However, in previous visits I had confined myself to a pint of London Porter and half a dozen Fine Claires! Good oysters are not hard to come by in London and therefore I think it would be difficult to base a review on such a limiting collection of shucked shellfish. Therefore, I have waited until now to give my review as my meal on this occasion was slightly more varied than on previous sittings.

One of my favourite things about this restaurant is not only its location but also the clever balance that it strikes between smart and informal. When I was there a fantastic mixture of city stock brokers and market shoppers mingled to sip ice cold Champagne, gobble fat oysters or large platters of fruit de mer whilst the open kitchen buzzed with activity of multiple orders. Then there were the great, unreserved unwashed who occupied themselves with their respective luncheons at the lengthy oak bar which straddled the whole restaurant. It was a Thursday (the new Friday some say) and the place was packed but a helpful waiter helped me find a lone perch at the bar and immediately helped me to a cold glass of Meantime London Porter – a masterful brew made by one of London’s best brewers.

I thought I would stray into unknown waters. I had never had cooked oysters and had been told by many that they were not worth the effort of the chef, however it was a flavour sensation I was yet to experience so I decided to order the exotically titled Oysters in the New Orleans style. I was presented with three tantalising oysters which had been crumbed and then deep fried until golden brown and a generous helping of Tartare Sauce. I can imagine traditionalists harrumphing at the mere thought of this dish but that did not stop it from being utterly delicious! The Oysters were wonderfully briny which went well with the piquant, gherkin and caper laden mayonnaise. This method of cooking, I suppose, was a homage to the Po’ Boys of the Deep South and I thought how good these oysters would have been between two crisp slices of toast, some shredded Iceberg Lettuce and some more Tartare Sauce (Food for thought indeed!).

I went light for my main course as I feel that solo gluttony is a rather unattractive sight and I had a reputation to uphold (however slight it was) – it wouldn’t do to be a Mr Creosote on this occasion! I opted for the traditional fish soup on this occasion which came with some very crisp toasts and a generous portion of both gruyere cheese and rouille (an emulsified hot sauce flavoured with garlic and chilli). I wish I could judge restaurants merely on the quality of their fish soup because so many can’t seem to get it right. Luckily, this was not the case this time. The soup was thick and smooth with a wonderful flavour from a homemade fish stock and fresh seafood. As with all traditional fish soup there was a hint of aniseed which reassured me that they had added a splash of pernod. There was also a wonderful  taste of fresh parsley which added another dimension to the soup and kept it clean and cut through the richness. The toasts were crisp, the gruyere fresh (ie it had not been hanging around too long and allowed to dry out) and the rouille punchy. All in all a great bowl of soup.

So what is there left to say but that my bill was brought speedily and with the minimum amount of fuss! I hope I have inspired you to take a trip there yourselves, the food isn’t fancy but it is fresh and well prepared. The ambience is fantastic and I imagine that it gets quite jolly in the evening when the city breaks for supper! It is not that cheap my meal with one drink came to £18 but I felt that it was worth every penny and there is nothing wrong with treating yourself to a bit of decadence now and then. So hats of the Wright Brothers for a fantastic lunch and a pleasant way to start a string of restaurant reviews rated to the rigorous standards of the Cordon Du Chap